Showing posts with label Hungary. Show all posts
Showing posts with label Hungary. Show all posts

Sunday, June 10, 2012

Dancing up the Danube: Part Deux

So having left the balkans and into Hungary and the Secheng region where border controls are no more, I reflected upon the native people I'd spoken to, those that were part of the former Yugoslavia and had witnessed the wars. The feeling I got was of passion and a belief that the way things were in the former Yuogslavia were of a better time.

Things weren't better now, the fractions still there, but the fighting had now stopped. With the war criminal Mladic and his atrosities going through the relevant channels, there were occasional protest and marches in Sarajevo, afterall it was 8,000 Bosnian men and boys he callously ordered genocide upon whilst England was preparing to host Euro 96. Why did this go on? Had we not learnt from previous evil dictators? With the crap in Syria going on, why are, the Democratic and very self righteous West, so slow to react? Why were things so bad to some, that the decades of unrest that follow were fought so violently for? Leaving the Balkans had left me with a feeling of happiness in the courageous and welcoming people I'd met, but sad that nothing was done to help the majority who actually didn't want massive change...

Into Hungary and Budapest our journey laid us upon 'Grandio Party Hostel'. I've been to several good hostels who party hard, but this was something else. The state of the place was terrible, the staff so hungover and decrepid it took an age to book in.

Once done, we embarked on a massive walking tour of Budapest, a lovely city that straddels the Danube, one side Buda, the other, Pest. We traversed both sides, crossing the gorgeous Chain bridge to get great views of the Parliament buildings and St. Stephen's Basilica, which we'd earlier climbed the heavy 308 steps to the top.

We carried on walking, but stopping for Goulash, when a military chopper came zooming over the Danube, low and fast performing some pretty sweet manouvers. We'd been told Die Hard 5 was being filmed in the city, and the several repeat flights, in conjunction with a support chopper swooping but always focusing on the military chopper, led me to guess this was more footage for Die Hard...

That night we went out on a bar crawl organised by the Hostel, it was OK, until Hutch and I got split and I was left on my own. I got back to the Hostel and had a beer or two, then hit the hay. Hutch, apparently, wasn't far behind me after his night managed to collide back with the crawl.

Next morning we got ready for the next and final stop on the Danube tour, to Bratislava, a casual 2 hour 40 minute journey. After some frantic rushing to get tickets, we cruised into Bratislava late. A small and quaint city with classically architechture, we did the main sights within a couple of hours, however the main sight for two fellows, was the quality of the female species.

Now, throughout the tour, there have been some lovely ladies, but the Slovaks are a different class. Tall, mainly brunette and with all the correct curves in the right places, these ladies were the highest quality seen so far!

The next stop was to the first host city, Wroclaw (pronounced 'vrats-whaf', don't ask!) The train journey took us through the Czech Republic, and we weren't supposed to stay long. However, the Czechs were in Wroclaw for the first day, and panic ensued in the train station with hundreds of people and our grip on Czech not great. We missed our connection, and ended up late into Wroclaw. We missed the first half of the Poland Greece game, the one notable bonus, seeing how empty the streets were as we made our way to the hostel as Poland played out a draw. We downed tools and headed to the fanzone, and started a few beers, seeing out the first game, preparing for Czech vs. Russia.

The atmosphere in the fanzone was tepid; the majority of fans were Czech and those boys took a thumping. We saw few Russia fans. Until we hit the hostel. We were essentially staying in mini Moskva! Rauchus Russians downing vodka like it was water was an enjoyable sight, their steely nature in conversation whetted my passion for Russia, I pushed on for conversation, eventually earning swigs of Vodka from the victourious Russians.

Upon going to bed, our room mate was in... a giant 6'10 Ukrainian, named Sas, who followed the motherland as his mother was Russian. His English poor, but his French much better. We conversed briefly in French, before all deciding enough was enough and bed beckoned. The still partying victorious vodka drinking Russians were still audiable, but the 12 hour journey and subsequent grog meant I was out for the count.



Friday, May 18, 2012

Euro 2012 : The pipe dream


Occasionally in life, something crops up and you just can't drop it. No matter how crazy it seems, awkward to organise or marginally expensive it feels. This is just an introduction to the start of many a blog entries in what I hope will be a great story over the next month. A friend, Stuart Hutchings, and I covering one of the biggest football tournaments in the World, mixed with a mad trip across the eastern red and iron clad part of the continent Europe. This is a blog about Mosski and Hutch going to Euro 2012.


In February, a colleague told Hutch he might have a couple of tickets for a European Championships game; England vs Ukraine, in Donets'k. This is about as far east as you can get on mainland Europe to Russia, the last stop before you will need a visa to enter the Motherland.


This immediately got my travel juices going. I never look at a direct journey, I look for the awkward, crazy and different approach. I knew that prices to fly directly into Donets'k when England were playing would be ridiculous. An alternative was required to get to this far flung corner of mainland Europe.


One of my good friends has a 7-seater Space Wagon, and he also likes an adventure. I proposed the idea of driving through Europe, dangling the carrot of reward; the finish of his thesis for his doctorate soon appearing over the horizon, just before the start of the Euro's. He was in. So were quite a few others. We could fill the car comfortably.


Then he was out. We were entering April. He wasn't going to get his thesis finished in time. May was a busy month for him, it just wasn't going to happen. We couldn't take the car without him. But the prospect of travelling across Europe was still in the back of my mind, as was it in Hutch's. This had to happen.


Over the next few weeks, the two of us collaborated and figured out different crazy routes. This wasn't just going to be about football, but an adventure, checking in a number of countries, sights, sounds, history, cultures. And football. We had ideas, we spent endless nights looking at routes, trying to get in as many games as possible, even if we didn't have tickets, the atmosphere, the adventure...


Moral was down, we just couldn't make the planned route overland to and from Donets'k to cover enough games in enough time. We'd spent hours one night looking at different options. Just wasn't feasible, too much was giving, not able to get to certain cities in time for games. UEFA, the games are horrible to traverse!


I sat back in my chair once Hutch had gone, it was past midnight. Why don't we reverse the route? Go though Poland first, then end up in Ukraine? Do we need to go to Donets'k, the potential ticket was gone. Donets'k was the problem, it was too far east. Will it work? Drag. Drop. Copy. Paste. Logical. Sense? That makes sense... bit tight in places, but possible. The route was bloody possible.


The next few weeks entailed a review of all the possibilities and combination of the routes; can we do this, and that, or the other... do we have enough time in x, will the overnight train leave late enough to allow time for the game? Most of it fitted. I even started to understand, because of the booking systems , lightly, the Cyrillic alphabet (thank god for Chrome and it's auto translate!)... apart from when I pressed cancel after a long booking process to find train times from L'viv to Kiev to find the times!


This was on. Euro 2012!


Below is the proposed high level itinerary* of the jaunt. If you have any advice on any of the places we are going, how to travel best between them, or any other general advice, then please comment.

*this is still subject to change

Date Match Country City Transit Sleep
Fri-01-Jun Croatia Pag Fly to Zadar Pag
Sat-02-Jun Croatia Pag Bus to Split Split
Sun-03-Jun Croatia Split Bus to Sarajevo Sarajevo
Mon-04-Jun Bosnia Sarajevo Bus to Belgrade Belgrade
Tue-05-Jun Serbia Belgrade Train
Wed-06-Jun Hungary Budapest Train to Budapest Budapest
Thu-07-Jun Slovakia Bratislava Train to Bratislava Bratislava
Fri-08-Jun Russia v Czech Poland Wroclaw Train to Wroclaw Wroclaw
Sat-09-Jun Poland Wroclaw Train to Gdansk Train
Sun-10-Jun Spain v Italy Poland Gdansk Gdansk
Mon-11-Jun Poland Warsaw Train to Warsaw Warsaw
Tue-12-Jun Poland v Russia Poland Warsaw Train to Lviv Train
Wed-13-Jun Denmark v Portugal Ukraine Lviv Lviv
Thu-14-Jun Ukraine Lviv Train to Kiev Train
Fri-15-Jun Sweden v England Ukraine Kiev Kiev
Sat-16-Jun Ukraine Chernobyl Train to L'viv Train
Sun-17-Jun Denmark v Germany Ukraine L'viv L'viv
Mon-18-Jun Ukraine Kiev Train to Kiev Train
Tue-19-Jun Sweden v France Ukraine Kiev Kiev
Wed-20-Jun Ukraine Kiev Train to Warsaw Train
Thu-21-Jun Quarter Final Poland Warsaw Warsaw
Fri-22-Jun Germany Berlin Train to Berlin Berlin
Sat-23-Jun Holland Amsterdam Train to Amsterdam Amsterdam
Sun-24-Jun UK Eindhoven Fly to Stansted Home