From Russia with L'viv

Having left Przemysl and hitting the Ukrainian border, we were staunchly checked by the Polish guard before they departed the train, and we chugged along for a few hundread metres. Next thing to follow was something of a media circus with the Ukrainian border patrol jumping on board. All well dressed and seemingly chirpy (Our Ukrainian can order two beers and a please and thank you...) chat from the guard, as they went about the business of checking passports, we then noticed other guards taking photo's, whilst the border patrol posed with passports, looking intensely, yet caringly onto our documents. The Soviet Union was a staunch advocate and emphatic power with propagander plays, and for a former Soviet state hosting a major event, there seemed to be a focus here on looking like a friendly host and showing a care free border crossing experience allowing people into the Ukraine.

The truth, having spent weeks planning this trip, was that working out a time and cost effective way to travel between these co host countries was farsical to say the least! The cohesion between them not apparent. We have still yet to find a way between the two capitals; Warsaw and Kiev.

Upon finally hitting L'viv, our host for the next 4 nights and first port of call in the Ukraine, we were greated by yet more media circus. Camera's pointing in our direction, and requests of interviews being laid down. We allowed the travelling Danes and Portugese to pick up the limelight, whilst we headed beyond the shadows of the train station and into glorious weather towards the tram stop to venture into town.


The 1940's tram approached and as we boarded, we realised that if we thought Poland were not ready, then the Ukrainans may have forgotten their duty as host all together. Signage in the roman alphabet was sparse and volunteers were no more beyond the station. We coped and within twenty minutes had hit downtown L'viv and found our accomodation! We downed bags and stumbled across a local restaurant. After some finger jabbing, jesturing and random translation we order the local delicacy Borsch (a local soup) for Hutch and Tripe in a cream and mushroom sauce for me (I hate mushrooms, but the translation was lost!). When in Rome and all that! As was standard practice by now, we shared the food we'd ordered to allow both of us a  taste of the local cusine. The food was suprisingly nice, despite the mushrooms, although Hutch still can't believe he ate tripe...

So, part of the reason for this travelling is to see some live football; we had tickets for Denmark Vs Portugal in L'viv. So after consuming the local cusine (and pints), headed towards the Arena L'viv. We borded a bus (there is no tram to the new stadium, that was plauged by construction problems throughout!) and after a 25 minute journey arrived... but there was still another 15 minutes of walking.

We had to collect our tickets in what I can only describe as a chaotic and badly organised queue. Once collected we headed into the ground. The stadium is a modest sized 35,000 capacity, and was constructed in a fairly hastily fashion. The surrounding areas were still unfinished, but the main compound was complete. The stadium itself is quite unique in it's style and for a new build has character.

If the stadium was impressive, the game was better. Although the first twenty minutes were fairly bland (I was fearing I could witness the first goalless draw of the tournament) the game opened up with Pepe's firm header from a corner. Suddenly the game jolted from it's slumber and action was abound. The otherwise useless Helder Postiga soon doubled the advantage after some good wing play and a drilled cross by Nani left Postiga with little to do. Portugal seemed in crusie control.

Just as the half was coming to a close, the Danes took advantage as the Portuguese were caught napping. The fancy named Krone-Dehli managed to unselfishly nod a loose cross back across goal for Bendtner to head into an almost unguarded net. Game on!

The second half started and again was cagey. Portugal had the better of the play, but failed to make anything count. Cristiano Ronaldo disappointed with a one on one, which was punished minutes later as Bendtner again nodded in to draw things level. Ronaldo was angry; he knew his poor finishing had potentially cost his team. He raised his game another notch, although his petulance earned him a booking. With just three minutes remaining, Portugal would be almost out of contention. Cue substitute Silvestre Varela to steel the show with a composed half stike past the flailing Andersen. Ronaldo looked relieved; the Danes devastated on the final whistle.

Once the game had finished, we took a while leaving, spending time walking around the insides of the stadium. Considering the tickets had cost 70 Euro each, we were treated with little respect when trying to take photo's, being ushered out quite quickly. I found this hugely frustrating, given that the previous stadiums were fortresses to get near; but when you pay up, you are urged to get out again quickly! This all smells of corporate UEFA, I'm sure the corporate dignitaries, those that turned up, were still inside, drinking complimentary champagne... Our journey back to the centre was a wierd one. It involved walking about 20 mins to the motorway, though a field with something that could be a path upon completion, and waiting for a bus, before rushing on in no particular order, in fact, walking alongside the bus until it stopped, then dashing on!

That evening came to a rather sharp close after watching the Netherlands capitulate to Germany and the previous days treck between the hosts. The Netherlands needed a small mirical to qualify now, whilst the German's, baring a minor mathematical miracle, were through. Both Denmark and Portugal needed the other to lose and for them to win. The Group of Death indeed!

So, the first day in the Ukraine, we saw an eventful game, but also the second of the co-hosts ability to, erm host. My impression is all the political unrest hasn't helped the Ukraine, a country that has phenomenal wealth with it's Oilgarchs, and extreme povety that is slowly getting over the early 90's economical hangover following the much maligned Soviet divorce. The stadium looked good, but it's location, and supporting infrastructure is weak. The city is awesome, but it's ability to house those unfamiliar with the Cyrillic alphabet isn't good. It reminds me of the situation with Moscow's for the European Cup in 2008.